How Fast They Grow!

6-24-07
7-18-07
8-6-07

Tilly's Training Commands

Verbal		Description
Tilly (dog's name)		Name recognition, always use her name when asking her to do something, or when calling her.
Potty		When she urinates outside, say "good Potty", every once in a while give a treat (make sure she completes potty before treat)
Poop		When she poops outside, say "good Poop", every once in a while give a treat (make sure she completes potty before treat)
Outside		When about to take her for a walk, ring the bell and say "outside". Next, have her ring the bell either with her nose or paw when you are about to take her outside. The object is to eventually get her to tell you when she needs to go out.
Crate		Say "crate" and point to crate when you want her to enter crate, every once in a while give a treat
Snack Time		Say "snack time!" when preparing her meals. Have her sit before feeding. Also important to get her used to meal interruption so she does not become possesive or aggressive with food items.
Sit		Place a treat above her head/nose so she physically has to sit to reach the treat, and say "sit". Have her sit for meals, before asking other behaviors, when company comes, etc.
Down		From a sit position, lower a treat to the ground. As she follows, say "down"
Off		Use "off" when she jumps up (either on people, or furniture). When jumping on people, have them turn their back around and ignore the behavior, then ask for a sit before she receives affection/treats.
Come		Use "come" to call her to you. Give lots of pets and affections, or treats if available if she runs over to you. Have 2-3 people space themselves out, and practice calling her name attached to "come". Reinforce heavily, this is an important behavior. Once she is reliable, try it outside with distractions, or in a park setting.
Walk		When she is walking next to me on the leash (not resisting, or pulling ahead), say "good walk"
Close		If pulling ahead on leash, stop, say "close", if she comes over to your side, give treats/pets, and say "good, close" and begin walking again.
Drink		When offering a bowl of water say "drink". It is good for them to learn this in case you want them to drink on command (for example if you are on a car trip or long walk and they don't have free access to water).
No		Use no for any unwanted behavior such as chewing, jumping, picking up stick (or rocks). I often use no with "leave it"
Leave it		Say "leave it" when they grab something you don't want them to eat (ROCKS), chew furniture, approach someone inappropriate (for example a frightened child, a cat, an unfriendly dog, etc)
Cookie		"cookie" means treat, we use it mostly when she enters a crate, after a long walk, or when introducing a new treat.
Go Get It		Say "go get it" when throwing a toy/ball for retrieval.
Take it		Say "take it" when you want her to put something in her mouth, mainly used with toys for retrieval.
Bring it		After she retrieves toy/ball and is carrying it back to you, say "bring it"
Drop it		Say "drop it" once she is back and you want her to drop the object. At first if she refuses, grab the top of her mouth and gently squeeze, while saying "drop it". If she releases, say "good!, Drop it" and give a treat, then throw the ball again. Make sure when teaching retrievals that you make it interesting. Every once in a while let them have the object for a while, or get a new toy.
Car Ride		Say "car ride!" when entering the car with the pup.
Belly Rub		Say "belly rub" when rubbing the belly for reinforcement
Look		Say "look" and point to your eyes. Initially, may want to take a treat, and place it in your fingers in between your eyes. This is good for getting their attention in an emergency, or when you want them to do something.
Stay		From a sit position, put your hand palm out in front of her face, and say "stay". Gradually increase the distance between you, and the length of time she remains staying. Use "ok" to release her.
Kisses		Say "kisses" when she licks you. This may be useful in stopping biting.
No Bites		When she bites, grab her under the chin, so she has to look you in the eye, and say "No Bites!" If she continues to bite, leave the situation, completely ignore the behavior. If she still follows you, continuing to bite, put her in a time out in her crate until she calms down. If she listens when you say no bites, give her a chew toy and say "ok"
Up		Say "up" if you are inviting her up on the couch/bed/car, etc. Right now we say it when she is climbing stairs also.
Ok		Use "ok" as a release from certain behaviors. It's kind of like a "stand down", you are free to be a puppy again.
Note on Discipline		For discipline, never hit your dog, you will only create fear and withdrawal. If she is doing something really bad and you want to get your message across, grab her by the shoulders, and lift her front feet/legs off the ground and gently shake while saying "no!" or "No, leave it!" If she gets the message, she will probably go lay down and look ashamed, and not make eye contact. This is good progress (even though you will feel bad). We did this with Tilly the first few days we had her when she would chase the cats. She totally ignores them now! Another affective discipline is grabbing them under the chin and lifting their face upwards. They have to look you in the eye this way, and dogs are really good about reading your body language and knowing you mean business.

June 2, 2007

Tilly has arrived! We picked her up in Iowa, and drove back to Chicago.

Training Goals

• Figure out all of the behaviors you want your dog to learn, and the word associations that go with them in advance. Learn how to train these behaviors! The younger the age, the quicker your pup will learn. You are teaching your dog English, so be clear on your vocabulary. Below is a list of our training goals for Tilly.
• Potty, Sit, Down, Off, Stay, Heel, Come, Drink, Ok, Wait, Take it, Drop it, Look

Puppy Schedule

• The first two weeks of potty training are very important. The puppy should be on a strict schedule that you set up in advance, and make sure the entire household is aware of the schedule and takes part in it. My housebreaking schedule is in a chart below. If you work a full 8-9 hour day, it is important to hire a dog walker or friend to come let your puppy out at least twice during the day, or you can gate your puppy in a more open area and train it to use newspaper or pee pads.

Tilly’s (approximate) Schedule

6:00 AM (Michael)	Walk puppy, ½ hour play time, back in crate
8:00 AM (Carrie)	Walk puppy, offer food and water, walk puppy, ½ hour play time, back in crate
10:30 AM (Carrie)	Walk puppy, ½ hour play time, back in crate
3:00 PM (Carrie)	Walk puppy, offer food and water, walk puppy, ½ hour play time, back in crate
6:00 PM (Michael and Carrie)	Walk puppy, offer food and water, walk puppy, ½ hour play time, back in crate
10:00 PM (Michael)	Walk puppy, crate overnight
2:00 AM (Carrie)	May be necessary for a quick walk mid-night during the first week of housebreaking.

Schedule for the working parents!

6:00(or 7:00) AM	Walk puppy, offer food and water, walk puppy, crate puppy
10:00(or 11:00) AM	Roscoe Recess comes for a bathroom break, crate puppy
2:00(or 3:00) PM	Roscoe Recess comes for a bathroom break, play time, possible feeding, crate puppy
6:00(or 7:00) PM	Walk puppy, offer food and water, walk puppy, indoor play time, crate puppy
10:00(or 11:00) PM	Walk puppy, play time, crate puppy overnight
2:00(or 3:00) AM	May be necessary for a quick walk mid-night during the first week of housebreaking

**It seems like a lot of crate time, but actually the walks can be as long as you wish. If they are outside, that is where you want them to go. The ½ hour play time indoors can be extended as the puppy learns to hold it, and knows the correct potty place. This is why it is advisable to get your puppy in the spring if you live in Chicago!!

Puppy Prep Ideas

Setting up the house

• Have your puppy crate in a comfortable area, but not isolated in a room that is never used.
• You may want to buy a gate to secure “puppy free” areas. We did this in our laundry room since that is where the cats food and litter boxes are.
• Pick a place for the dog’s food and water bowls, it is nice to be consistent with your puppy right from the beginning so they don’t get confused.
• Pick a designated potty area, and be consistent with it. If you have a back yard, you may want to add a bark chip area that is specifically for your dog. That way the pup doesn’t ruin your grass, flower beds, etc. in the future. Dogs learn quickly, if you allow them to urinate on your grass early, they think it is ok later.

Budgeting

• Choose your veterinarian in advance, and discuss prices for routine puppy shots, heartworm medication, spay/neuter charges, etc., so you can budget in advance. Puppies are expensive! Also find out where the closest 24 hour emergency vet is in relation to where you live and program that number into your phone.
• You may want to purchase puppy insurance. It usually ranges between 25-35 dollars per month and covers accidents, illness, and routine check ups. For Tilly, we use VPI Pet Insurance, which was recommended by our veterinarian (www.petinsurance.com). She is on the VPI Superior Plan ($26.77 per month), which covers accidents and illnesses ($50 deductible per incident), and also routine wellness coverage (puppy shots, spay, routine physicals) with no deductible.

Transporting Puppy Home/Acclimation

• It is a good idea to have more than one person along for the ride when you pick up your puppy. They will be scared, and won’t want to sit by themselves in a crate or box. Make lots of stops for bathroom breaks if you are driving far. You should exercise your dog before bringing it into it’s new home. A tired puppy is much more relaxed when meeting other family members, other pets, children, etc.
• Have your puppy’s schedule in place in advance, and stick to it! It will be tempting to throw the whole schedule out the window, and just play with your cute pup all day (especially if you have kids), but this is a critical learning period in your dog’s life. You need to establish yourself as its pack leader(s) right from the start.
• Once you get your new puppy, you will want everyone in the world to meet it, as well as all of your friend’s dogs! It is important that your puppy is not exposed to other dogs until it has had at least it’s second round of puppy vaccinations. Even if other dogs are healthy and vaccinated, they can carry certain bacteria and diseases to your puppy. Once they are vaccinated, socialization is very important. The more dogs they meet the better!
• It is a good idea to introduce your pup to lots of different people at an early age. You may want to do this slowly. In other words, don’t have ten people come over to meet puppy the first day! Once the pup feels secure in his new home and schedule, slowly have people come over to meet him. After a few weeks, it is then ok to bring your puppy to meet others.
• During the puppy’s first six months, it is also important to acclimate them to a variety of sounds and sights so you don’t have future problems. For example, our puppy will be coming from a farm in Iowa, and moving to the intersection of Belmont and Western! We constantly have fire trucks, ambulances, fire works, cars honking, thunderstorms, etc. These sounds will no doubt scare little Tilly. It is important to reinforce her when these noises occur, letting her know they are no big deal. If a fire truck goes by, make a big fuss over her, and offer a treat. Bang two pots together, offer a treat, etc.

Housebreaking Plan

• Crate training
• Crating your puppy will speed up the housebreaking process. Dogs are denning animals and once they are used to a crate, they should feel secure and happy in it. Place the crate in a busy room where people are social so the puppy does not feel isolated.
• You may want to put the crate in your bedroom at night. Dogs are pack animals, and eventually your dog will want to sleep in your room with you (not necessarily in your bed, that is a personal decision, our bed is reserved for our two cats). Also, during the first week, the pup will be scared being away from mom and siblings and you don’t want it to feel isolated. The puppy will cry through at least the first night. It is ok to comfort him/her, but don’t take the pup to the bed with you! They will never get used to the crate if you do this! We decided to set up our crate in our family room, which is our busiest room in the house. The first week, one of us will sleep on the couch in the room with the pup until she gets used to her new living arrangement. With proper exercise and scheduling, after a few days to a week, the puppy should be tired enough at night that they no longer miss mom and need someone there through the night.
• When first introduced to the crate, make sure the puppy has had a long walk and is ready to rest. A treat or chew toy should accompany the first crate introduction.
• The crate should be big enough for the puppy to lie down, stand up, and turn around, but no bigger. You don’t want the puppy to be able to go to the other side of the crate to do his business and still stay dry, he won’t learn to hold it. We have borrowed a life stages crate, which has a divider that can be adjusted as the puppy grows.
• Do not use the crate as punishment!
• Do not put food or water inside of the crate. It is important to be in control of the puppy’s water and food intake. If they have free access to water and food, you don’t know how full their small bladders/bellies are.
• Leave the puppy in the crate for two-four hour periods. Find a designated outdoor bathroom area, and bring the puppy to this area after offering a drink. When the puppy eliminates, say “potty”, or any other designated word. After the puppy eliminates outside, give lots of praise, and treats. When brought inside, puppy can have ½ hour to an hour of play time, then goes back in crate. Repeat process. As puppy starts to learn to hold it, play time outside of the crate is increased.
• Accidents
• During the learning process, there will be accidents. It is important that the puppy is not physically punished, this only makes the puppy scared to eliminate in front of you, and they will secretly go in other parts of the house. If you catch puppy in the act, make a noise and face that shows the puppy you are not pleased and gets its attention. Then bring puppy to its designated outside area to finish. If puppy continues to eliminate outside, reward with praise, and say “good, potty”.

Recommended Reading:

Cesar’s Way by Cesar Millan

The Loved Dog by Tamar Geller

Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor

Mother Knows Best by Carol Lea Benjamin

Items Purchased in Advance:

Crate

Bed

Blanket

Food Bowls

Food/Treats

Leash

Collar/Tag

Carrier

Gate

Toys

Preparing for Tilly

On June 2, 2007, my husband Michael and I are getting our puppy (English Labrador Retriever) Tilly. Tilly is named after one of my favorite animals at the Lincoln Park Zoo, a harbor seal that taught me so much about operant conditioning training, discipline, frustration, and love. After starting the dog walking business in January, I thought it would be helpful to my puppy clients to document my thoughts and training processes as our puppy grows. These are solely my opinions, and I hope they will be helpful to new puppy parents!